What follows describes how the country functions now, under martial law. Anyone considering travel should first read the current advice from their own government, which in most cases advises against it.
Entry
Civil airspace has been closed since February 2022, so there are no commercial flights. Entry is overland from Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania or Moldova, by car, bus or train. Citizens of the EU, the United Kingdom, the United States, Canada and many other countries do not need a visa for stays up to 90 days. Border queues at the Polish crossings can be long; rail crossings are usually quicker. Men who are Ukrainian citizens aged 18 to 60 are generally not permitted to leave.
Trains
Ukrzaliznytsia has kept running throughout the war and has become a point of national pride, with trains arriving on time under conditions that would stop most railways. Sleeper services connect Kyiv with Lviv, Odesa, Kharkiv and Zakarpattia, and international trains run to Przemysl, Chelm, Warsaw, Budapest, Vienna, Chisinau and Bucharest. Tickets are sold online and sell out. Classes run from platskart, an open sleeping carriage, to two-berth compartments.
Money
The currency is the hryvnia. Ukraine has one of the most advanced card payment systems in Europe and contactless works nearly everywhere including markets and minibuses; Apple Pay and Google Pay are ubiquitous. Carry some cash for villages. ATMs are widespread, though they can be out of service during blackouts.
Curfew and alerts
A nationwide curfew runs overnight, with hours varying by region, typically from midnight to five. Being outside during it is an offence. Air raid alerts are announced by sirens and by the Air Alert application, which everyone uses and which visitors should install immediately; it states which region is affected and when the alert ends. During an alert, go to the nearest shelter, metro station or an interior room with two walls between you and the outside.
Connectivity and power
Mobile coverage and internet are good, with Starlink widely used as backup. Power cuts are scheduled during periods of grid attack and most businesses have generators. Bring a power bank; it is the single most useful item.
Rules
Do not photograph military installations, checkpoints, air defence, damage from strikes or the results of an attack; this is prohibited and enforced. Do not post live locations of strikes. Carry your passport at all times. Follow instructions from military and police without argument.